In the previous post, I did some leg work to find you great white button down shirts at a variety of price points. Now, let’s dive into the fun part – how to style your white button down shirt. My main focus will be on breaking down the nuts and bolts of exactly HOW to wear it and the fashion signals each decision sends. And, all of these styling ideas will apply to any button-down shirt. Let’s get into it.
The Collar
When styling a white button-down shirt, the first thing people notice is the collar. There are really only three ways to wear the collar.
Collar Up or Down
My generally preferred way is to wear it popped up. I like the structure and, as I said in this post, I like that a standing collar camouflages my uneven shoulders. In many cases, the popped collar will naturally fall into the folded down position, depending on how stiff the fabric is.
In Between
Because I like the structure, I will sometimes stand the collar up in the back and fold it down toward the front. This look is a bit less formal, yet still has the structure.
Buttoned or Un-Buttoned
I will mostly wear my collars un-buttoned, or open. However, I think buttoned, with a blazer or vest, can be a very cute look. It’s more edgy than formal. If you have some necklaces to layer on top, that looks great.
Sleeves
Similar to the collar, how you wear the cuffs of the sleeves is going to send fashion signals.
Cuffed
A way to show a bit of flair is to do a half-fold on the cuff, almost simulating a “cuff link” look. This changes the silhouette and adds a bit of style. Even if you’re wearing the shirt under a jacket or sweater, a cuff folded over can create just the right contrast and interest.
Standard Fold
The standard fold uses the cuff as the guide. This is an easy fold, which starts by unbuttoning all the cuff buttons and fold the sleeve with the cuff as your guide. You should end up with a clean fold and you can decide if you want to stop at your forearm of carry it above your elbow. This will send more relaxed, “roll up your sleeves and work” signals.
Italian and J. Crew Fold
These all use the same technique, but with varying degrees of formality. To begin this roll, you want to bring the cuff up to your elbow in one, clean fold. Then do another fold from there. This should achieve 10-20% of the cuff still showing. If you want a more polished look, smooth the fold and just have a bit peeking out, which makes it an Italian fold. If you want a more casual, easy look, this is where it becomes a J. Crew fold. The folding process is the same, but when you get to the end, you will tug on the cuff to bunch it up a bit. The look will be more carefree, like you just bunched up your sleeves casually.
Fully Buttoned
If you’re wearing the shirt under a jacket or sweater, buttoned cuffs will keep the sleeves from riding up. If you take the jacket off, you may want to roll up the cuffs in any of the ways above.
Tucks
As with sleeve folds, there are a number of different tucks you can employ to send different style signals.
Full Tuck
You can always do a full tuck if you want to show off the waist of a skirt or pants. Especially in a work, or more formal situation, this will be a good, safe way to go. Add a great belt and you’re done.
Front Tuck
Tucking the shirt into the front and leaving the back out is a way to highlight the front of your pants (I can’t think of how this would work with skirts). This works well if you have great jeans or a belt that you want to show off the front, while creating some interest (or distraction) in the back. I’ll often do this if I’m wearing a sweater over my shirt. I might want the front to be cleaner yet create some interest in the back. I would definitely reserve this for a more casual outfit.
Half-Tuck
The best of both worlds is the half-tuck. You tuck the front half of the shirt in. Be sure to tuck the half the buttons are sewn into otherwise you will create some unnecessary bunching.
This tuck sends a confident, stylish signal. It says you want to show off your pants and you’re confident enough to wear it.
Wrap Tuck
Here’s a bonus tuck. Another way to create interest at the waist is to tuck the tails of your shirt to the right side, then the left side. This has the appearance of being an elegant “wrap shirt”. You can leave the back untucked (and rolled under for a cleaner look) or tuck it in.
Out
I generally don’t wear a button-down shirt fully out, unless it’s a special shirt. However, out and unbuttoned as a layering piece can be a nice, casual look.
This shirt, from COS, with it’s longer tail is meant to wear out. This is a summer staple for me. It’s a few years old, but this one from COS is similar.
Layering
The white button-down shirt is the perfect layering item.
Layer Under
Here you’re layering the white shirt under as the foundational piece of your outfit. It will provide structure and interest under most any sweater, vest, blazer or jacket. You will want to employ the tuck that goes best with the vibe of the outfit.
Layer Over
You can always wear a t-shirt or tank under the shirt. This makes the shirt the main focal point but provides some dimension and interest. For a more casual look, you can layer the shirt over and wear it un-tucked. Or, wear it tied at the waist, over a sundress for additional coverage.
Ties and Button Tricks
One element of styling a white button-down shirt that can extend its versatility is by tying it and doing some fun button gymnastics.
Tied at the Waist
A great option for styling a white button-down shirt is to tie it at the waist. This works to elevate and add a bit of interest. You can do this alone or layered. It works great with pants, skirts or even over a dress.
I roll the back up, then take the two tails, and tie the tail with the button holes over the one with the buttons. This will create the least bunchy knot. If you’re left with a gape, you can either tie it tighter or button it.
Button Flap
You can create an asymmetrical look by doubling up the buttons on one side (fold the shirt up and button it twice to create the flap, then tuck the other side across and under). This works a little better with a more flowy fabric than a stiff cotton. For the right outfit, it’s a unique option.
I’m wearing the “Organic Big Shirt” from Gap.
Dressed Up Pairings
There’s almost nothing more professional than the white button-down shirt. And I’d say it’s perfect for an office or work setting. If you wear it with a jacket, it’s fully appropriate to remove the jacket and wear the shirt alone, sleeves rolled up or down.
You can similarly dress it up (again, as we discussed in this post, it should be a more upscale shirt) to almost be formal wear. Remember Sharon Stone’s ground-breaking white shirt and long skirt moment at the Oscar’s? Then more recently, Zendaya wore the combo with a cropped white shirt to the 2022 Oscar’s.
Dressed Down Pairings
The white button-down shirt is the perfect thing to wear with a pair of jeans or khaki’s, even shorts.
I hope that helps give you some ways to think about the multitude of choices you have in styling a white button-down shirt. Each small styling choice sends a fashion message about your style. As with most things, you’ll need to play around as you pair it with some of your favorite things in your closet.
Have fun, and wear it with confidence.
WETSU! WETSU!
XO JT
