As international travel complexities prompt many Americans to reconsider their summer plans, I’ve got the perfect stateside alternative. In fact, it might just outshine those European dreams, and with little to no jetlag. Spend a long weekend in Traverse City, my WETSU paradise.
As the sunlight shimmers on my parents’ deck, the chorus of birdsong mingles with distant boat motors puttering to life. This is Traverse City, Michigan—the Midwest’s best-kept secret and my personal paradise.
When people ask me for summer vacation recommendations lately, I don’t hesitate. Forget crowded European destinations with their language barriers and currency conversions. The heart of Northern Michigan offers everything a summer getaway should: pristine waters, world-class cuisine, award-winning wineriess, and that ineffable WETSU spirit that permeates everything here.
Traverse City has become HOT
I’ve been coming to Traverse City for most of my life, and now, so are many other people. In fact, there is a celebrity set that has found it. To name just a few…famous chef, Mario Batalli lives in North Port and, while I can’t prove that this is tied, there has been a surge in great restaurants. Filmmaker Michael Moore lives there and has moved his entire production company to Traverse City. He purchased the State Theatre and runs an annual Film Festival that attracts people from all over. Madonna’s father runs Ciccone Vinyards and Winery. And former Transportation Secretary, Pete Buttigieg and his husband, Chasten and their family live in Traverse City.
Lake Life: Water, Water Everywhere
While there are multiple gorgeous, deep, natural inland lakes around Traverse City. This area of Michigan is surrounded by big bodies of fresh water. Grand Traverse Bay forms the sparkling centerpiece of Traverse City’s appeal. Split into east and west bays surrounding Old Mission Peninsula (more on this later), these crystal-clear waters offer endless possibilities for summer enjoyment. And, just a short drive to the west is Lake Michigan.
Each morning during my stays, I have my coffee down by the lake, then hop on my paddleboard for a long, peaceful paddle. I have written about this transcendent peace in other blog posts. It’s my happy place where I truly WETSU! I’m an early riser, so when I return my family people is just getting moving. Later we’ll go out on the pontoon boat or float until everyone is ready to head out.
For visitors without their own watercraft, numerous rental shops dot the shoreline. TC Watersports offers all sorts of watercraft including Pontoon boats, jet skis and paddleboards. Paddle TC rents standup paddle boards, kayaks and bikes. If you are on an inland lake and want to rent a pontoon boat or other watercraft you have a few options, many of these outfits will deliver to you. Spending a lot of time on the water should be a significant part of your weekend in Traverse City.
Weekend in Traverse City — What to Do
Wine Tasting — Old Mission Penninsula
No visit to Traverse City is complete without dedicating some time exploring Old Mission Peninsula, the 19-mile finger of land that splits Grand Traverse Bay and creates one of the most unique microclimates in American winemaking.
The peninsula’s location on the 45th parallel—the same latitude as Bordeaux, France—combined with the moderating effects of Lake Michigan creates perfect conditions for growing cool-climate varietals. The result is a wine region that regularly stuns even the most skeptical oenophiles.
You can start out with morning coffee at Old Mission General Store, a historic establishment dating back to 1839 that feels frozen in time. From there, follow M-37 north, stopping at panoramic overlooks where both bays are visible simultaneously—a geographic feature that still amazes me every visit.
For wine tastings, Chateau Grand Traverse offers some of the most spectacular views coupled with excellent Rieslings. Mari Vineyards, with its Tuscan-inspired architecture and underground aging caves, produces bold reds that defy northern Michigan expectations. My personal is Bonobo Winery, partly owned by Carter Oosterhouse (of TLC Trading Spaces fame) and his wife, Amy Smart Oosterhouse. The wines are great, and the deck has views of both bays.
Between tastings, don’t miss Lighthouse Park at the peninsula’s northern tip, where the 1870 Mission Point Lighthouse stands. The surrounding trails offer peaceful forest walks, and on clear days, you can see fox islands on the horizon.
Sleeping Bear Dunes
Just a short drive west on M-72 is the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. It’s on Lake Michigan with miles a visitor’s center that plays an informative video of the park and offers maps and trails. If you want there is great bike riding and hiking trails. But the biggest attraction, and one of the easiest to access, is seeing the actual dunes. There are roads, parking and a boardwalk that makes it very easy to actually see down the 450 foot dunes – with the two Sleeping Bear islands. The nearby town of Glen Arbor offers a cute downtown great shops and restaurants.
Drive M22
While you’re in the area you will see the iconic road sign “M22” on t-shirts, sweatshirts and bumper stickers. M22 is a beautiful, scenic drive up the west arm of the Grand Traverse Bay (AKA “West Bay” to North Port, then south to Leland, where you’re close to the Sleeping Bear Dunes. Technically the drive is 116 miles, but I usually cut it short and take M-72 back to the Traverse City area. This scenic drive is a good add on to your Sleeping Bear Dunes trip. You’ll go through three of my favorite towns, Sutton’s Bay, Northport and Leland. Each town is worth a stop during your weekend in Traverse City.
Tubing on the Platte River
I have to be honest that when this activity was suggested, I couldn’t understand why we’d leave our lake (and lake toys) to float down a river. I was wrong! It was the most relaxing, beautiful and fun 2-hour trip! Riverside Canoes is a great outfitter. You can do a 2 or 4 hour trip — and it’s a great activity for all ages.
Shopping in Traverse City
Front Street in Downtown Traverse City has three blocks of really good shopping. It’s a little touristy, but not too bad. Here are some of my favorites:
Cali’s – this is a must-stop for really unique clothes and home items. They’ve recently consolidated to just one floor, so have less inventory. But it’s always worth a sweep through.
Ella’s – has great clothes, furniture and offers design services. They have very unique clothing and seem to specialize in Citizens of Humanity. I have purchased a few pairs here.
Cherry Republic – Have I mentioned that Traverse City is the [self-proclaimed] Cherry Capital of the World? Cherry Republic has a huge variety of items made from cherries, including jams, salsa’s, ice cream, beer and wind. They have sample stations of most everything so you can taste before you buy. This is a great place to stock up on hostess or housewarming gifts – they do a great job boxing and packaging the items.
Antiquities Warehouse – Here you will find mostly antiques, mixed in with some vintage-looking, but new items. All well curated and unique.
M22 – this is the place to get your M22 gear.
Momentum Outfitters – If you want to take home a souvenir sweatshirt or t-shirt, Momentum has lots of great things at unbelievable prices (like sweatshirts for under $20). It’s all high quality – I’ve had sweatshirts from there for years and it hold’s up well. It’s so affordable that when groups would come visit my parents, my Mom’s favorite thing was to give everyone Traverse City t-shirts to take home.
Boyne Country Sports – This started mostly as a ski shop, but they have a great assortment of active clothes for sun, lake, golf, tennis and just leisure. And, insider secret, they have a full room dedicated to sale items. So, if you’re looking for a great ski or down jacket, you can usually find great prices. Most of the sale inventory will be from the previous season (so winter in summer), but you can also find some current season items. I always peruse this room –you never know what treasure you will find.
My mother used to call Traverse City “God’s Country” and she’s not wrong. No matter what your summer plans are, it’s definately worth it to plan a weekend in Traverse City. I promise, it won’t be your last. And, I’m excited for you to experience WETSU!!
I’ll cover lodging and the great restaurants and food options in Part 2.
WETSU! WETSU!
XO JT
